During a wine tasting at Owen Roe last May, as we became a lil tipsy and frolicked in the joy of the wine we were tasting, a flurry of box-checking next to the wines we loved and wanted to purchase left us in a state of confusion afterwards.
"What in the heck did we just buy?"
It wasn't until a couple of weeks later, when we received the wine, that we saw what happened that day.
All we know is that we bought three of the Lady Rosa Syrah so...we must have liked it. Right?
That question was answered last night and, while this one still needs some time, happy smoky loveliness in the glass was the result, something that played into the five spice-rubbed meat and sweet potato goodness to a point of pretty enough pairing pleasure, if not perfection.
Food: Five-spice "hanging tenders" with sweet potato fries and adobo-orange zest mayo for dipping
- France
- Loire
- Vouvray
- '09 Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Sec Cuvée Silex
- NV Champalou Pétillant Vouvray Brut
- '09 Hélène d'Orléans Brut Millésimé
- NV Vigneau Chevreau Demi-Sec Sparkling (2)
- '05 Domaine Huet Clos Du Bourg Demi-Sec
- '02 Domaine Huet Pétillant Brut
- '05 Foreau Vouvray Demi-Sec Domaine Clos Du Naudin
- '07 François Pinon Cuvée Tradition
- '07 Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec
- Saumur
- Chinon
- Muscadet
- Sancerre
- '12 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Blanc (2)
- '10 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Blanc
- '11 Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc
- '09 Patient Cottat Vieilles Vignes
- '08 Domaine Vacheron Blanc
- '06 Chateau de Maimbray
- '07 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Chavignol Les Monts Damnés
- '08 Thomas & Fils Sancerre Le Crêle
- '09 Daniel Chotard Sancerre Blanc
- '09 Domaine Girard La Garenne Sancerre Rouge
- Pouilly Fumé
- Savennières
- Bourgueil
- Montlouis-sur-Loire
- Other Loire
- Vouvray
- Burgundy
- Champagne
- NV Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny - ChicagoNow
- NV Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes De Vrigny (2)
- NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru
- NV Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée - ChicagoNow
- NV Larmandier-Bernier Rosé de Saignée (2)
- NV Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus Brut Nature Blanc de blancs
- '00 Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club 1er Cru
- NV Paul Bara Bouzy Brut Rosé
- NV Paul Bara Bouzy Grand Cru
- '06 Marc Hebrart Millesime Special Club
- '02 Pierre Gimmonet Spécial Club de Collection
- '03 Dom Perignon
- NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut
- NV Billcart-Salmon Brut Réserve
- NV René Geoffroy Rosé de Saignée
- NV Pierre Péters Blancs de Blancs
- NV Henriot Souverain Brut
- NV Gaston Chiquet Brut Tradition
- NV Varnier-Fanniere Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brüt
- NV Ayala Brut Majeur (4)
- NV Ayala Zero Dosage
- NV Marc Hebrart Cuvée de Reserve Premier Cru
- NV Pierre Peters "Pour Albane" Brut Rosé
- Bordeaux
- Rhône
- Northern Rhône
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape
- '10 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Blanc
- '10 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Blanc - ChicagoNow
- '07 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Rouge
- '07 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Rouge - ChicagoNow
- '06 Domaine de Marcoux Rouge
- '09 Domaine Grand Veneur Les Origines
- '11 Domaine Chante Cigale Blanc
- '07 Chateau La Nerthe Blanc
- '07 La Fiacre du Pape
- Lirac
- Beaumes-de-Venise
- Rasteau
- Tavel
- Gigondas
- Vaucluse
- Côtes du Rhône
- Provence
- Other
- Other Regions
- Loire
- Rioja
- '64 Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva
- '68 Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco
- '70 Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva
- '91 Heredia Bosconia Gran Reserva
- '02 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '01 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '00 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '98 Heredia Tondonia Reserva
- '05 Heredia Cubillo
- '03 Heredia Cubillo
- '91 Heredia Tondonia Blanco
- '89 Heredia Tondonia Blanco
- '96 Heredia Gravonia Blanco (2)
- '99 Heredia Gravonia Blanco (2)
- '00 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '01 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '04 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '98 Heredia Tondonia Rosado (2)
- '04 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva
- '01 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial (2)
- '01 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza RE - ChicagoNow
- '01 Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva
- '96 Contino Gran Reserva
- NV Muga Conde de Haro Cava
- '01 Altún Reserva
- '05 Bodegas Ondalán 100 Abades Graciano
- Ribera Del Duero
- '00 Pingus
- '07 Flor de Pingus
- '06 Flor de Pingus
- '09 Pingus PSI
- '08 Pingus PSI
- '07 Pingus PSI (2)
- '01 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5º
- '06 Dominio de Atauta
- '02 Dominio de Atauta Llanos del Almendro
- '05 Bodegas Astrales - ChicagoNow
- '05 Bodegas Astrales
- '04 Bodegas Astrales
- '05 Dominio De Atauta
- '04 Resalte de Peñafiel de Restia Crianza
- '06 Torres Celeste
- '04 Hacienda Monasterio
- '05 Alonso del Yerro
- '09 Protos Tinto Fino
- Penedès/Cava
- '05 Gramona Gran Reserva Brut Nature Ill Lustros
- '08 Gramona Gran Cuvée Cava
- NV Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir Brut Cava
- '03 Sasserra Malvasia de Sitges Penedès
- '07 Raventós i Blanc "L'Hereu Reserva" Brut Cava
- '06 Raventós i Blanc "L'Hereu Reserva" Brut Cava (2)
- '07 Raventos i Blanc Rosé Cava de Nit
- '12 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc
- '11 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc
- '09 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc (2)
- '05 Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Cava
- NV Juvé y Camps Brut Rosado Cava
- '08 Torres Viña Esmeralda
- NV Peñalba López Cava Brut - Ribera Del Duero
- NV Albero Cava
- Rías Baixas
- '10 Raul Pérez "Muti" Albariño
- '11 Forja del Salnes Leirana Albariño
- '12 Orballo Albariño
- '11 Orballo Albariño
- '10 Orballo Albariño
- '08 Orballo Albariño (4)
- '12 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '09 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '07 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '12 La Cana Albariño
- '08 La Cana Albariño
- '08 Valtea Albariño
- '10 Legado de Conte Albariño
- Other Spain
- '10 Raul Péréz El Pecado Ribeira Sacra
- '09 Adega Pena Das Donas "Almalarga" Godello Ribeira Sacra
- '04 Dominio do Bibei La Pola Ribeira Sacra
- '09 Tampesta Finca de los Vientos
- '11 Ameztoi Txakolina - Basque Country (2)
- '08 Viñátigo Verdello - Canary Islands
- '10 Viña Mein Domillor - Ribeiro
- '09 San Clidio - Ribeiro
- '07 Palacios Petalos-Bierzo
- '05 Jiménez-Landi - Méntrida
- '05 Jiménez-Landi Sotorrondero - Méntrida
- '05 Pico Madama - Jumilla
- '07 La Casa De La Ermita Viognier-Jumilla
- Portugal
- Quinta Do Vale Meão
- Quinta Do Vallado
- Quinta Do Crasto
- Other Douro
- Other Portugal
- '11 Luis Pato Ferñao Pires - Beira Atlantico
- '12 Luis Pato Maria Gomes Vinho Branco - Beiras
- '11 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco - Beiras
- '12 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde
- '12 Quinta Casal do Monteiro Branco - Tejo
- '11 JPR Lima Loureiro Vinho Verde
- '11 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde - ChicagoNow
- '11 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde
- '08 Quinta do Feital Auratus Alvarinho-Trajadura
- '09 Quinta do Cardo Síria Beira Interior
- '09 Quinta do Cardo Síria Beira Interior - ChicagoNow
- '09 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Vinho Verde Muros Antigos
- '03 Monte d'Oiro Reserva Lisboa
- '08 Loios Tinto - Alentejano
- Wachau
- '06 Prager Riesling Smaragd Bodenstein
- '05 Prager Riesling Steinreigl
- '03 Prager Riesling Bodenstein
- '02 Prager Riesling Kaiserberg
- '99 Prager Riesling Steinreigl (3)
- '07 Prager Riesling Steinriegl Federspiel
- '09 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Bodenstein
- '03 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint
- '07 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain
- '04 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor
- '07 Rudi Pichler Riesling Federspiel
- '06 Rudi Pichler Riesling Federspiel
- '04 Loimer Langenlois Riesling
- Kremstal
- Kamptal
- Südsteiermark
- Burgenland
- Rheingau
- Mosel
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
- '10 Selbach Incline Riesling
- '09 Selbach-Oster Riesling Spätlese
- '08 Dr. Loosen Riesling
- Rheinhessen
- Pfalz
- Napa/Sonoma
- '06 Venge Cabernet Family Reserve
- '08 Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay
- '09 Orin Swift Veladora
- NV Mumm Napa Cuvée M
- '09 Freeman Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
- '07 Seghesio Zinfandel
- '06 Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel
- '04 Joseph Swan Syrah Trenton Estate
- '06 Capiaux Pinot Noir Widdoes RRV
- '09 Trader Joe's Grand Reserve Pinot Noir - RRV
- Paso Robles
- '06 Villa Creek Mas De Maha (6)
- '08 Villa Creek Mas De Maha (2)
- '08 Villa Creek Mas De Maha - ChicagoNow
- '10 Villa Creek Willow Creek Cuvée
- '12 Villa Creek Rosé
- '11 Villa Creek Rosé
- '11 Villa Creek White
- '10 Villa Creek Garnacha
- '09 Villa Creek Granadina
- '09 Villa Creek Avenger
- '09 Villa Creek Willow Creek Cuvée
- '07 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel
- '07 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas
- '11 TJ's Reserve Syrah
- Santa Barbara
- '12 A Tribute To Grace Grenache - SBH
- '12 A Tribute To Grace Grenache - SBC
- '07 Tensley Syrah Tierra Alta Vineyard
- '13 Palmina Sparkling Malvasia
- '13 Palmina Sparkling Barbera
- '12 Palmina Botasea Rosado de Palmina
- '12 Palmina Dolcetto - Santa Barbara
- '10 Palmina Arneis - Santa Ynez
- '11 Palmina Malvasia Bianca
- '07 Palmina Malvasia Bianca - Santa Ynez
- '09 Palmina Barbera
- '06 Palmina Nebbiolo Honea
- '07 Palmina Nebbiolo
- '11 Palmina Pinot Grigio
- '10 Palmina Tocai Friulano
- More Central Coast
- '12 Broc Cellars Cab Franc - Central Coast
- '12 Birichino Malvasia - Monterey
- '13 Matthiasson Tendu Red/White - Yolo (2)
- '10 Neyers Carignan Evangelho - Contra Costa
- '10 Neyers Mourvèdre Evangelho - Contra Costa
- '09 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville - Somona Coast
- '10 Neyers Sage Canyon - Napa Valley
- '09 Verdad Tempranillo Edna Valley
- '11 Three Wine Co. Mataro
- '10 Rock Wall Tannat The Palindrome
- '07 Sanguis Oracle Of Delphi
- '05 Sanguis Bossman
- '05 Sanguis Optimist
- '06 Lucia Syrah Gary's Vineyard
- '08 Quinta Cruz Touriga San Antonio Valley
- '08 Bonny Doon Ca' Del Solo Albariño
- '05 Graff Family Consensus
- '07 Edna Valley Pinot Noir
- '08 Babcock Identity Crisis
- '06 Rosenblum Mourvèdre
- '04 Terre Rouge Sentinel/Pyramid - Shenandoah
- '10 Calera Viognier Mt. Harlan
- North Coast
- '12 Arnot-Roberts Trousseau (2)
- '13 Arnot-Roberts Rosé
- '13 Broc Cellars Valdiguié Solano
- '12 Broc Cellars Carbonic Carignan
- '13 Donkey & Goat Carignane - Mendocino
- '12 TJ's Reserve Barbera - Mendocino
- '07 Enotria Arneis
- '07 Gregory Graham Zinfandel
- '07 Francis Ford Coppola Votre Santé Chardonnay
- '06 M. Cosentino Pinot Noir
- NV TJ's North Coast Sparkling
- More Regions - Culled
- '12 Mark Herold Acha Blanca (2)
- '12 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho - Sierra FH
- '10 Forlorn Hope La Gitana Torrontés - Lodi
- '13 Forlorn Hope Ost-Intrigen St. Laurent - Carneros
- '12 Scholium Rhododactylos - Lodi
- '04 Twisted Oak Tempranillo - Calaveras County
- '08 Twisted Oak Ol' Chumbucket - Calaveras County
- '08 Twisted Oak The Spaniard - Calaveras County
- '06 Twisted Oak The Spaniard - Calaveras County
- '07 Twisted Oak River of Skulls - Calaveras County
- '07 Twisted Oak Parcel 17 - Calaveras County
- NV Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot #61
- NV Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs Brüt
- '08 Orin Swift Saldo - Culled (2)
- '06 Bokisch Graciano-Lodi (3)
- '07 Bokisch Albariño-Lodi
- '08 Chariot Gypsy-Culled
- '04 Chariot Sangiovese-Culled
- '07 JRE Tradition-Culled
- 'NV Thackrey Pleiades XVII
- '08 Bogle Phantom
- Yamhill-Carlton
- Dundee Hills
- McMinnville
- Eola-Amity Hills
- More Willamette - Culled
- '06 Archery Summit PC
- '10 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '09 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '08 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '07 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '05 Ken Wright Elton Vineyard Willamette
- '05 J.K. Carriere Pinot Noir
- '07 A to Z Pinot Noir
- '07 Anne Amie Pinot Noir Willamette
- '07 Ken Wright Pinot Blanc
- '07 Gypsy Dancer Pinot Gris
- '08 Hamacher Pinot Noir "H" Series
- '08 Castle Rock
- NV Sokol Blosser Evolution (15th)
- Ponzi
- '06 Ponzi Pinot Noir (4)
- '08 Ponzi Pinot Noir (3)
- '08 Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve
- '09 Ponzi Pinot Noir (4)
- '09 Ponzi Pinot Noir Tavola (2)
- '12 Ponzi Rosato Rosé of Pinot Noir
- '10 Ponzi Rosato Rosé of Pinot Noir
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Noir Rosé
- '09 Ponzi Dolcetto
- '11 Ponzi Arneis (5)
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Gris (3)
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Blanc
- '10 Ponzi Vino Gelato
- Southern Oregon
- Columbia Valley
- Yakima Valley
- '08 Efesté Syrah Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard
- '08 Efesté Syrah Ceidleigh - Red Mountain
- '09 Owen Roe Cab Franc Rosa Mystica
- '09 Owen Roe Cab Franc Slide Mountain
- '10 Owen Roe Lady Rosa Syrah
- '08 Owen Roe Lady Rosa Syrah
- '08 Owen Roe Yakima Valley Red
- '08 Owen Roe Merlot Dubrul Vineyard
- '09 Owen Roe Sinister Hand
- '11 Maison Bleue Jaja
- '08 Gramercy Cellars The Third Man
- '07 J. Bookwalter The Protagonist
- '06 Long Shadows Sequel
- '08 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling
- '08 Tamarack Firehouse Red
- Walla Walla
- Horse Heaven Hills
- Other Wash - Culled
- McLaren Vale
- Barossa
- '06 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra
- '03 Hobbs Gregor Shiraz (3)
- '04 Two Hands Beautiful Stranger
- '04 Two Hands Beautiful Stranger - Chicago Now
- '10 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier
- '05 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier - ChicagoNow
- '05 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier (2)
- '04 Schild Estate Shiraz
- '05 Schild Estate Shiraz
- '09 Schild Estate GMS (3)
- '05 First Drop Two Percent
- '08 Langmeil Grenache The Fifth Wave
- '05 Colonial Estate Exile
- '05 Colonial Estate Envoy (2)
- '08 Yalumba Viognier
- '08 Turkey Flat Rosé
- '07 Turkey Flat Rosé
- '08 Peter Lehmann Layers
- Other Aussie
- New Zealand
- North
- NV Fattoria Moretto Lambrusco
- '13 Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Fondatore
- '10 La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana
- '10 La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana - ChicagoNow
- '12 Bastianich Rosato di Refosco Venezia Giulia
- '11 Bibi Graetz Casamatta Bianco Toscana
- '06 Kris Pinot Nero
- '07 Prá Soave
- '08 Gini Soave
- '00 Tommasi Ca'Florian Amarone DV
- '07 Monte del Fra Amarone Classico
- '06 Conte de Bregonzo Amarone
- '05 Colli Di Parma Sparkling Malvasia
- NV Lini 910 Lambrusco Bianco Sparkling
- '09 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium
- '05 TJ's Sagrantino di Montefalco
- '10 Paitin Roero Arneis
- South
- Frank Cornellisen Susucaru #5 (4) - Sicily
- '11 Arianna Occhipinti IL Frappato Sicily
- '11 Arianna Occhipinti TAMÌ Frappato Sicily
- '10 Centonze Frappato Sicily
- '09 Sella E Mosca Riserva Cannonau di Sargedna
- '12 Terre Nere Etna Rosato Sicily
- '07 Archeo Nero d'Avola - Sicily
- '13 San Salvatore Falanghina - Campania
- NV Taburno Falanghina Spumante (3) - Campania
- '10 De Falco Falanghina - Campania (3)
- '05 Villa Carafa Asprinio - Campania
- '09 Argiolas Rosado - Sardinia
- Sangria
- Greece
- Hungary
- Other
- Argus Tepache Pineapple Wine (2)
- '09 Alain Graillot Syrah Syrocco - Morocco
- NV Vipava Extra Brut - Slovenia
- '09 Matosevic Alba - Croatia (2)
- '11 Domaine Douloufakis Malvasia - Crete (2)
- '06 Slavyantsi Rosé - Bulgaria
- '08 Neuchátel Oeil de Perdrix PN - Swiss
- '09 The Wolftrap - South Africa
- '07 Dr. Konstantin Frank R-SD - NY
- NV Gruet Brut Rosé - New Mexico
- Extebarri - Basque Country
- Mugaritz - Basque Country
- Arzak - San Sebastian
- El Trujal del Abuelo - Cihuri
- Astrid y Gaston - Madrid
- Las Tortilas de Gabino - Madrid
- Ad Hoc - Napa
- Ubuntu - Napa
- Chez Panisse - Berkeley
- Zuni Café - San Francisco
- DC - Komi, Jaleo, Minibar, 2 Amy's
- Lola - Cleveland
- Bacchus - Milwaukee
- Blackbird (4)
- Elizabeth
- Moto
- Mado
- Taxim
- Avec
- The Purple Pig
- Ceres Table
- The Bristol
- The Girl & The Goat
- Urban Belly
- Anteprima
- Semiramis
- Indie Café
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Thursday, October 18, 2012
#304 - Cacio E Pepe With '11 Vera Alvarinho
The biggest reason I continue to do this weird little blog is because there's no end to it.
There's no end to food. No end to wine. No end to pairings.
You can eat and drink everyday from birth to death and not even touch the tip of everything offered by this strange world. It just keeps going! Just abide by a few simple pairing rules and lunch or dinner jettisons itself out of merely lunch or dinner into a pause, a moment, a suspension of the normal flow of the day where the clock, the to-do list and the usual life annoyances no longer register.
Done well and they're tiny vacations.
Every. Day.
Food: Cacio e pepe pasta with arugula salad
Recipe from Saveur. Two alterations. Oregano added and Sardinian pecorino fioretto used in addition to pecorino romano.
Less is more with Italian pasta and that's why it's good. Get too cute, think you're all that, and you've ruined the joy of its simplicity.
And watch how cheap mini-vacation joy can be.
There's no end to food. No end to wine. No end to pairings.
You can eat and drink everyday from birth to death and not even touch the tip of everything offered by this strange world. It just keeps going! Just abide by a few simple pairing rules and lunch or dinner jettisons itself out of merely lunch or dinner into a pause, a moment, a suspension of the normal flow of the day where the clock, the to-do list and the usual life annoyances no longer register.
Done well and they're tiny vacations.
Every. Day.
Food: Cacio e pepe pasta with arugula salad
Recipe from Saveur. Two alterations. Oregano added and Sardinian pecorino fioretto used in addition to pecorino romano.
Less is more with Italian pasta and that's why it's good. Get too cute, think you're all that, and you've ruined the joy of its simplicity.
And watch how cheap mini-vacation joy can be.
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
#303 - Borlotti Bean & Blue Cheese Fregola Risotto With '07 Sanguis Oracle Of Delphi
15.3% alcohol in a wine is quite a lot.
But when done well with particular attention paid to a refreshing acid lift on the finish, you've got wine that is rather friendly and inviting instead of tongue-killing and port-like.
That's what we got last night from this 2007 Sanguis offering comprising of 96% syrah and 4% viognier.
Put into a food world like borlotti bean and blue cheese fregola risotto with a little Cleveland bacon to match the meaty notes in the wine and you've got a winner.
Many wine types poo-poo such largesse in a wine. They say to keep your reds under 14% and your whites under 13%. Admirable goal, that. Under 15% is commonplace in our house, but keeping your reds under 14% excludes so much freakin' great wine.
The world is big. The wine world is big. Big wines made well can and do have a place. Just like large food flavors - bacon as an ingredient in virtually everything, BBQ, whole roasted pig's sticky-sweet goodness, spicy Thai, etc. - large wines on occasion can be the truth. So let's stop saying wines HAVE to be one certain way. It works the other way as well.
Yes, Parker's love of the big-boy bombs has had a detrimental effect on the emphasis of subtlety, grace and finesse in wine. But isn't the wine world pulling the same philosophical jujitsu when it comes to diversity by outright dismissing higher alcohol wines? Getting down and dirty with a plate of food chockablock with massive flavors necessitates a wine that can keep up. That's gonna mean a bit more alcohol that many may want. But made well and it's happy-slappy stuff.
Dismiss higher-alcohol wines whole-hog and you dismiss the food pairing joy that can come with such things.
So let's make that distinction. Higher alcohol in and of itself isn't a terrible thing. It's bad winemakers that patently refuse to do a good job of integrating it into a larger picture in the glass.
But when done well with particular attention paid to a refreshing acid lift on the finish, you've got wine that is rather friendly and inviting instead of tongue-killing and port-like.
That's what we got last night from this 2007 Sanguis offering comprising of 96% syrah and 4% viognier.
Put into a food world like borlotti bean and blue cheese fregola risotto with a little Cleveland bacon to match the meaty notes in the wine and you've got a winner.
Many wine types poo-poo such largesse in a wine. They say to keep your reds under 14% and your whites under 13%. Admirable goal, that. Under 15% is commonplace in our house, but keeping your reds under 14% excludes so much freakin' great wine.
The world is big. The wine world is big. Big wines made well can and do have a place. Just like large food flavors - bacon as an ingredient in virtually everything, BBQ, whole roasted pig's sticky-sweet goodness, spicy Thai, etc. - large wines on occasion can be the truth. So let's stop saying wines HAVE to be one certain way. It works the other way as well.
Yes, Parker's love of the big-boy bombs has had a detrimental effect on the emphasis of subtlety, grace and finesse in wine. But isn't the wine world pulling the same philosophical jujitsu when it comes to diversity by outright dismissing higher alcohol wines? Getting down and dirty with a plate of food chockablock with massive flavors necessitates a wine that can keep up. That's gonna mean a bit more alcohol that many may want. But made well and it's happy-slappy stuff.
Dismiss higher-alcohol wines whole-hog and you dismiss the food pairing joy that can come with such things.
So let's make that distinction. Higher alcohol in and of itself isn't a terrible thing. It's bad winemakers that patently refuse to do a good job of integrating it into a larger picture in the glass.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
#302 - Anniversary Roasted Chicken With '03 Dom Pérignon
Every once in awhile, my curiosity piques over the ridiculously extravagant.
Over the stupid stuff, the silly things in life made strictly to say, "I am lavish. I am ornate. I harken back to the spirit of rococo, the baroque. By possessing me, you are saying something about what you are, how you live and most importantly, what you're not. And you're going to pay a hefty sum for me...to keep out the riff-raff."
Wine is not immune. Not even close. In fact, the wine world may be one of the last of the supposed luxury worlds that, in some circles, is still meticulously protecting their exclusivity with ever-increasing gateway prices that would feed a Guatemalan village for a month.
For juice. I don't become curious over the status-chasing stupidity of it all. I just sometimes wonder, "What does it taste like?"
With all that said, that's not really Dom Pérignon. Their release prices have held rather steady and, in a relative high-end wine sense, reasonable over the years. You can get a cuvée for about a C-note and a half upon release. It starts to go up from there as demand begins to outpace supply and $150 is nothing to sneeze at for sure.
But we'd never had a Dom Pérignon and an anniversary dinner to celebrate number eight was coming up. We could go out into the world and continue our streak of being let down by anniversary/birthday-type dinners (long, uninterrupted stretch there - and my Thanksgiving crappy movie streak is prodigious) or we could stay in, eat a favorite meal and drink fancy-pants wine for half the price. Even think about following said fancy-pants wine every anniversary and watch it evolve.
The end result was delicious, enormous, chickeny chicken, fancy French Basque cheese (hey, we were just on the other side of that border) and a Champagne that tasted of fancy vanilla bean, butter and not much else.
This Dom Pérignon (I refuse to call it Dom) is just a baby but that was the idea. Start it out early and see where it goes over the years. After having it, we were left with a palpable sense of "keep it." Nice to have, now know what it is in a sense, beautiful texture worth every bit of its price tag but we'd take an Egly-Ouriet at half the price any day of the week.
Over the stupid stuff, the silly things in life made strictly to say, "I am lavish. I am ornate. I harken back to the spirit of rococo, the baroque. By possessing me, you are saying something about what you are, how you live and most importantly, what you're not. And you're going to pay a hefty sum for me...to keep out the riff-raff."
Wine is not immune. Not even close. In fact, the wine world may be one of the last of the supposed luxury worlds that, in some circles, is still meticulously protecting their exclusivity with ever-increasing gateway prices that would feed a Guatemalan village for a month.
For juice. I don't become curious over the status-chasing stupidity of it all. I just sometimes wonder, "What does it taste like?"
With all that said, that's not really Dom Pérignon. Their release prices have held rather steady and, in a relative high-end wine sense, reasonable over the years. You can get a cuvée for about a C-note and a half upon release. It starts to go up from there as demand begins to outpace supply and $150 is nothing to sneeze at for sure.
But we'd never had a Dom Pérignon and an anniversary dinner to celebrate number eight was coming up. We could go out into the world and continue our streak of being let down by anniversary/birthday-type dinners (long, uninterrupted stretch there - and my Thanksgiving crappy movie streak is prodigious) or we could stay in, eat a favorite meal and drink fancy-pants wine for half the price. Even think about following said fancy-pants wine every anniversary and watch it evolve.
The end result was delicious, enormous, chickeny chicken, fancy French Basque cheese (hey, we were just on the other side of that border) and a Champagne that tasted of fancy vanilla bean, butter and not much else.
This Dom Pérignon (I refuse to call it Dom) is just a baby but that was the idea. Start it out early and see where it goes over the years. After having it, we were left with a palpable sense of "keep it." Nice to have, now know what it is in a sense, beautiful texture worth every bit of its price tag but we'd take an Egly-Ouriet at half the price any day of the week.
Friday, October 5, 2012
#301 - Cleveland Followed By A Cleveland Meal
31 hours out our door and back through it.
That was our trip to Cleveland to stock up at West Side Market, eat at Lolita and see Louis C.K. kick off his current tour.
Big stock-up at West Side Market with all the Cleveland goodness now in our freezer. Pierogis, gnocchi, bacon, jerky, sausages, stuff that tastes like Cleveland and only Cleveland. We've tried Chicago pierogis. They're not Cleveland pierogis.
Meal at Lolita. Bruschetta and bone marrow to start. Chicken and duck confit as entrées. Bottle of 2008 McCrea Yakima Valley mourvèdre-forward blend to drink. I have a thing for Lolita - the atmosphere, the portions, the flavors, the Tremont neighborhood, our waitress, the lighting, how laid-back it is, how delicious the food is, the honesty of it all after all these years, the totality of the experience. It's just good in every way.
I won't give a review of Louis C.K.'s show. I'll just say it's the best thing I've seen on stage in my life (small batch, to be fair). I saw Carlin a couple of times. This was better. I've never laughed that hard, that long, that thoroughly.
So...took off at 7:30am on Wednesday, got into Cleveland at 2:30pm, went to West Side Market, dumped stuff at our hotel, got to Lolita at 5pm, ate, went to Severance Hall at 7:30 to see Louis C.K., done by 9:30, went to sleep and left the next morning, back by 2:30pm.
Seemingly tight schedule but it wasn't. Because everything in Cleveland is ten minutes away with no traffic. And from the time we sat down at Lolita to the time we left Severance Hall was the most entertaining "dinner and a show" I've ever had in my life.
Not too shabby.
So to celebrate the greatness and ease of such a Cleveland trip, a Cleveland meal to finish the day.
That was our trip to Cleveland to stock up at West Side Market, eat at Lolita and see Louis C.K. kick off his current tour.
Big stock-up at West Side Market with all the Cleveland goodness now in our freezer. Pierogis, gnocchi, bacon, jerky, sausages, stuff that tastes like Cleveland and only Cleveland. We've tried Chicago pierogis. They're not Cleveland pierogis.
Meal at Lolita. Bruschetta and bone marrow to start. Chicken and duck confit as entrées. Bottle of 2008 McCrea Yakima Valley mourvèdre-forward blend to drink. I have a thing for Lolita - the atmosphere, the portions, the flavors, the Tremont neighborhood, our waitress, the lighting, how laid-back it is, how delicious the food is, the honesty of it all after all these years, the totality of the experience. It's just good in every way.
I won't give a review of Louis C.K.'s show. I'll just say it's the best thing I've seen on stage in my life (small batch, to be fair). I saw Carlin a couple of times. This was better. I've never laughed that hard, that long, that thoroughly.
So...took off at 7:30am on Wednesday, got into Cleveland at 2:30pm, went to West Side Market, dumped stuff at our hotel, got to Lolita at 5pm, ate, went to Severance Hall at 7:30 to see Louis C.K., done by 9:30, went to sleep and left the next morning, back by 2:30pm.
Seemingly tight schedule but it wasn't. Because everything in Cleveland is ten minutes away with no traffic. And from the time we sat down at Lolita to the time we left Severance Hall was the most entertaining "dinner and a show" I've ever had in my life.
Not too shabby.
So to celebrate the greatness and ease of such a Cleveland trip, a Cleveland meal to finish the day.
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
#300 - Romanian Skirt Steak, Spring Onions & Scallion Sauce With '07 Twisted Oak The Spaniard
Hey...we made it to 300 pairings.
Or 300 posts with probably 450 pairings.
I guess, given the societal significance attached to numbers ending to double zeros, I should sum up what we've learned lo these last almost three years.
Learned...? Hmm. I guess that is the word here. Because we have learned, while it's always been a rather organic process dictated entirely by our own random curiosity.
In many ways, food with wine has become what we love, what we do, it's our hobby, the thing we find infinitely interesting and...fun. Finding that in our 30's was something unexpected and joyful.
We knew all that when I started this blog but it's become a little more entrenched, more of a love I would say, more essential and true when talking about what we like in life. Because it's good.
So good.
Like this.
Or 300 posts with probably 450 pairings.
I guess, given the societal significance attached to numbers ending to double zeros, I should sum up what we've learned lo these last almost three years.
Learned...? Hmm. I guess that is the word here. Because we have learned, while it's always been a rather organic process dictated entirely by our own random curiosity.
In many ways, food with wine has become what we love, what we do, it's our hobby, the thing we find infinitely interesting and...fun. Finding that in our 30's was something unexpected and joyful.
We knew all that when I started this blog but it's become a little more entrenched, more of a love I would say, more essential and true when talking about what we like in life. Because it's good.
So good.
Like this.
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