Showing posts with label 2005 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2005 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier. Show all posts

Thursday, April 28, 2011

#183 - Sake-Soaked Wagyu Beef & Sweet Potato Fries With '05 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier

We eat meat, love meat and crave meat.

But this year, we've eaten much less meat, more lean meat and mostly mini versions of meat with each meal.

Under the auspices of 'you can have too much of a good thing,' we started to experience the fact that bigger portions of meat, even six ounces of meat, on the plate detracts from the after-burn from and basking in the enjoyment of a good meal.

We've been wanting our veggies more, our greens more and a well-prepared starch more with a smaller portion of meat at the center of the meal to complement instead of bullying such things.

We've always eaten well-balanced meals but being from the Midwest, we haven't completely shed the upbringing of meat and meat with a side of meat.

Eight ounces of wagyu beef, a slab of dead animal that tasted like a delicious grilled stick of butter, will force anyone to reconsider the peculiar details of an upbringing.  Sort of like eating the Meat Monster.

Mrs. Ney was prudent and stopped at four ounces of meat-butter consumption.  I did not.

Food:  Sake-soy soaked wagyu beef, sweet potato fries with red thai curry mayo and watercress

The Fish Guy on Elston wagyu beef ($36 for 16 oz.) cooked rare.  Not cheap but it's wagyu.  Oddly though, it left us wanting a bit.  This was the first time we cooked up wagyu at home.  Had it and loved it in various forms out in the world but never at home.  Dunked in salt, then sake, then soy sauce, then finished with a crusting of szechuan peppercorns; from a Saveur recipe and the same recipe used in the superlative #143 Asian beef filet with 2007 Quinta do Vale Meão in December.  Quality stuff but begged the question:  If you're going to buy one of the best cuts of meat on the planet, should you go whole-hog and buy the best cut of one of the best cut of meat on the planet?  Both of us weren't driving down to Fox & Obel and probably drop $20 more to get the same amount but we ended up wondering if he should have.  If done again, that would feel right and proper.

Beautiful taste, great marbling but we both felt like eating eight ounces of anything that tastes like a grilled stick of butter needs in its most basic form to be much...less.  Three to four ounces would have been prudent and even necessary.  Something about taking that first bite and seeing the task before you with so much more meat on the plate forces the meat to loudly star.  Stop halfway through?  Again, I grew up in the Midwest in a big family.  You clean your plate.  Still haven't shed some of that upbringing.

But the Asian preparation of the wagyu was delicious stuff and it's versatile with so many other cuts of beef.  Sake and soy come through beautifully, imparting a deep but bright and lifting quality that lingers nicely with a popping and bright szechuan peppercorn hit backing it up.

That played right into the sweet potato fries and Thai red curry mayo for dipping.  We like our mayo and this one sits in the top five.  With the meat prep and sweet potato-mayo-Asian goodness, we were happy.

Uplands Cress watercress bag from Jewel, roots and all in the bag, stemmed and then wilted in the meat pan.  A better watercress by every measure.  Planty and raw with a punch of something that tastes like the white bits in potting soil in the best possible way.  No other watercress will most likely ever hit the plate in this house.

Tasty food galore.  Asian-y, delicious and played right into one of our favorite wines.  But four ounces of beef filet offering something less of a "LOOK AT ME, I'M WAGYU!" might have been better.  We needed more low-key beefy goodness to allow every element of the meal to alternately take the stage and belch out to the rafters.  We needed a meat that would shut up and let others show their acting chops.

It was like watching Nicolas Cage chewing scenery with his bloated Nic Cage-ness at every possible turn.

Wine:  2005 Yalumba Hand-Picked Shiraz Viognier ($30 - Winerz)

Probably the fourth bottle we've had of this vintage.  Used to be available in town but sadly has gone away.

Biggest impression of the night was how little it's budged since we first had it.  Still chugging along, longer life here and cheap, cheap, cheap for what you get.  More dark cherry and wild berry with an underlying darker fruit note and a small creamy edge but plenty of dark, meaty fruit skin.  The fruit since our last experience seems to have became a bit more tight and focused.  Some nice grip.

Secondary flavors of herby sage, a touch of pencil and even something similar to sweet paprika with mature, paced transitions leading to a finish that kept going.  Viognier still lending a juicy acid feel to it, lifting it out of the ordinary Australian shiraz world and into something more pretty and friendly.

Followed a great arc throughout the meal, becoming more open and delicious halfway through and ending on an irony sanguine note that was utterly delicious.  Not fruit bomby, this is graceful stuff.

Again, shocked how little age this one has shown over the years.  Falls into the 2003 Pirramimma world for us - a wine that we'd buy a case of just to watch it die a fun death.      

Pairing:  89  Enough basic goodness but the world, like the meal, needs less of Nic Cage being Nic Cage

If we cooked up four ounces of beef filet with the same preparation, this one could have been great.

Good stuff paired the wagyu with the Asian preparation playing its part more than the meat.  Szechuan peppercorns continue to shine with Australian shiraz for us.

Nice with the sweet potato fries and Thai red curry dip and strangely good at times with the watercress, especially as the wine hit its later, irony stage.

We liked this meal but expected more, though.

And as Mrs. Ney says, "People that bitch about Australian fruits bombs can kiss my butt!"

Good ones are Great Stuff in our world.

Monday, January 25, 2010

#29 - Asian Beef Filet & '05 Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier +1


Easily one of the best meals we've had in months.

Months, I tell you!

Food: Asian-tinged beef filet with rice cakes, basil and mâche

Bright and beautiful beef filet from Paulina Meat Market (expensive but worth every bite) marinated in soy and sake on top of cut basil, Trader Joe's rice cakes and mâche with a ponzu and sake dressing while fresh ginger and ponzu on the side.

Meat of this quality is so damn rare. Rivals the dry-aged beef from Fox & Obel and is probably better. Wait...yep. It's better. It's real meat in the most glorious way. Not prime rib. Not New York Strip. Those simply evoke childhood memories of what quality steak should be. Bullocks!

THIS is real meat. Bright, yet deep. Beautiful sanguine quality yet a lifting finish. Wagyu may be gold but, for the price, I'd happily take this any day over it.

Mrs. Ney cooked it so wonderfully, only a picture in the right light would do it justice. I'm not taking pictures of our food because that's stupid.

Trader's Joes rice cakes claimed to be overdone and maybe they were but nothing detracted.

Mâche done with a sesame oil and ponzu dressing that proved again that I'm starting to really like wine with greens.

Wine: 2005 Yalumba Hand-Picked Shiraz-Viognier - $35 Binny's (?)

First bottle corked. Only the second time we've had a corked bottle (can't for the life of me remember the first one). Second bottle gorgeous.

This is one that might be a perfect wine in a couple of years but it's still drinking great right now. A teeny bit of oak makes me think that a little time will allow that to integrate in the most wonderful way.

But that might be a great thing about slightly young Shiraz. You can tell a bit of time would reward the wine but it's still absolutely fine to cork and pour. You'll still love it.

No decant. Might have helped.

Big dark cherry with some sort of wild berry (mulberry in the WS description - yes, probably) with a bit of graphite and a nice minerality throughout. Don't really drink Left Bank Bordeaux for the most part so that whole graphite thing mystifies me a bit but yes, a pencil-like note was present and quite delicious. Blended with the fruit and took it to a new, much more complex level.

Definitely creamy and an herbal sage-like background. Not overripe in fruit. Played like a well-crafted syrah with only a hint of big, obvious Australian-ness. Graphite and berry with cream and sage. Wonderful.

A pretty great wine and something we need to buy more of soon.

Pairing: Perfect by the most pure definition in our world

First, the wine played off everything. As a great food and wine pairing should, this one enhanced the food to a level nearly unprecedented.

I can't state this more emphatically. This was a truly spectacular meal. Mrs. Ney put it perfectly. The medium body of the wine really allowed the bright, medium weight of the filets to play off each other. It was as if all the formal introductions were bypassed and they went straight to the conversation.

And what made that possible was the subtle touch with the Asian flavors. All of them served as a baseline foundation but nothing peaked its head past that. Everything stayed in its proper place. The brightness of the beef was the star with a little Asian flair peeking its head around the corner.

It took me hours to get the flavor of this pairing out of my mouth.

Best meal in months...and we've had some good ones.


I would be remiss without mentioning the next night's food and wine dud.

But some context should be applied. On a night when we were supposed to go out for dinner, I was called for jury duty and it went WAY over the time promised (and, of course, I got picked).

So...a bit of rushed planning job overall.

Food: Herbes de Provence-crusted New York Strip, farro and pomegranate seeds with pea shoots in olive oil and balsamic

Nothing wrong with the food at all. New York Strip from Paulina Meat Market, bought after Mrs. Ney saw the previous beef filet and decided to get both (while simultaneously not trying to rile the surly Paulina guys - a bit of "we'll do something wth that as well"- kind of thing).

They know her well.

Crust on the beef was gorgeous, done exactly like she does duck, a true joy in this house.

Something about New York Strip, though. Like I said previously, prime rib and NY strip simply evokes childhood memories of "fancy" steak and that's really it. Cooked beautifully and certainly delicious, but right after the filet, it didn't stand a chance.

Solid farro and pomegranate. Always good. Pea shoots with olive oil and balsamic served as a good palate cleanser.

Wine: 2007 Andezon Côtes de Rhône & 2006 Regis Bouvier Bourgogne En Montre Cul (both in the $12-18 range at WDC)

The meal was good. The wine is where we went wrong. Something about missing a night out and having jury duty screwed with everything.

I wanted to try the Andezon because so many restaurants in town have it on their wine list by the glass.

I may as well combine the descriptions because both followed the same evolutionary path. For about four minutes, both wines were mildly interesting, though initially closed.

The Andezon at its peak was zingy and full of red fruit. Not really that great (passable) but it showed a bit more personality. The Bouvier showed a bit more pure fruit with a tinge of funk in the background. Kind of what we've experienced with cheap Burgundy but I'm not interested in that, at least not yet. It'll take a few years for us to get into Burgundy because good expressions are so damn expensive.

After their ever-so-brief peaks, both turned flabby and boring.

Here's a lesson. If Robert Parker raves about a wine, talking about it in flowery prose with superlatives belched all over the place while only giving it 90 points, he didn't love it. Just pass.

Pairing: Awful

And we weren't cracking a third bottle for this meal.

We wanted to go out!