- France
- Loire
- Vouvray
- '09 Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Sec Cuvée Silex
- NV Champalou Pétillant Vouvray Brut
- '09 Hélène d'Orléans Brut Millésimé
- NV Vigneau Chevreau Demi-Sec Sparkling (2)
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- Pouilly Fumé
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- Vouvray
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- NV Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny - ChicagoNow
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- '00 Gaston Chiquet Spécial Club 1er Cru
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- '06 Marc Hebrart Millesime Special Club
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- '03 Dom Perignon
- NV Piper-Heidsieck Brut
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- NV Ayala Zero Dosage
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- Bordeaux
- Rhône
- Northern Rhône
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape
- '10 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Blanc
- '10 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Blanc - ChicagoNow
- '07 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Rouge
- '07 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Rouge - ChicagoNow
- '06 Domaine de Marcoux Rouge
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- Lirac
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- Loire
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- '64 Heredia Tondonia Gran Reserva
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- '02 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '01 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '00 Heredia Bosconia Reserva
- '98 Heredia Tondonia Reserva
- '05 Heredia Cubillo
- '03 Heredia Cubillo
- '91 Heredia Tondonia Blanco
- '89 Heredia Tondonia Blanco
- '96 Heredia Gravonia Blanco (2)
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- '00 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '01 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '04 Heredia Gravonia Blanco
- '98 Heredia Tondonia Rosado (2)
- '04 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva
- '01 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva Especial (2)
- '01 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza RE - ChicagoNow
- '01 Bodegas Beronia Gran Reserva
- '96 Contino Gran Reserva
- NV Muga Conde de Haro Cava
- '01 Altún Reserva
- '05 Bodegas Ondalán 100 Abades Graciano
- Ribera Del Duero
- '00 Pingus
- '07 Flor de Pingus
- '06 Flor de Pingus
- '09 Pingus PSI
- '08 Pingus PSI
- '07 Pingus PSI (2)
- '01 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5º
- '06 Dominio de Atauta
- '02 Dominio de Atauta Llanos del Almendro
- '05 Bodegas Astrales - ChicagoNow
- '05 Bodegas Astrales
- '04 Bodegas Astrales
- '05 Dominio De Atauta
- '04 Resalte de Peñafiel de Restia Crianza
- '06 Torres Celeste
- '04 Hacienda Monasterio
- '05 Alonso del Yerro
- '09 Protos Tinto Fino
- Penedès/Cava
- '05 Gramona Gran Reserva Brut Nature Ill Lustros
- '08 Gramona Gran Cuvée Cava
- NV Juvé y Camps Pinot Noir Brut Cava
- '03 Sasserra Malvasia de Sitges Penedès
- '07 Raventós i Blanc "L'Hereu Reserva" Brut Cava
- '06 Raventós i Blanc "L'Hereu Reserva" Brut Cava (2)
- '07 Raventos i Blanc Rosé Cava de Nit
- '12 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc
- '11 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc
- '09 Raventos i Blanc Perfum de vi Blanc (2)
- '05 Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Cava
- NV Juvé y Camps Brut Rosado Cava
- '08 Torres Viña Esmeralda
- NV Peñalba López Cava Brut - Ribera Del Duero
- NV Albero Cava
- Rías Baixas
- '10 Raul Pérez "Muti" Albariño
- '11 Forja del Salnes Leirana Albariño
- '12 Orballo Albariño
- '11 Orballo Albariño
- '10 Orballo Albariño
- '08 Orballo Albariño (4)
- '12 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '09 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '07 Albariño Do Ferreiro
- '12 La Cana Albariño
- '08 La Cana Albariño
- '08 Valtea Albariño
- '10 Legado de Conte Albariño
- Other Spain
- '10 Raul Péréz El Pecado Ribeira Sacra
- '09 Adega Pena Das Donas "Almalarga" Godello Ribeira Sacra
- '04 Dominio do Bibei La Pola Ribeira Sacra
- '09 Tampesta Finca de los Vientos
- '11 Ameztoi Txakolina - Basque Country (2)
- '08 Viñátigo Verdello - Canary Islands
- '10 Viña Mein Domillor - Ribeiro
- '09 San Clidio - Ribeiro
- '07 Palacios Petalos-Bierzo
- '05 Jiménez-Landi - Méntrida
- '05 Jiménez-Landi Sotorrondero - Méntrida
- '05 Pico Madama - Jumilla
- '07 La Casa De La Ermita Viognier-Jumilla
- Portugal
- Quinta Do Vale Meão
- Quinta Do Vallado
- Quinta Do Crasto
- Other Douro
- Other Portugal
- '11 Luis Pato Ferñao Pires - Beira Atlantico
- '12 Luis Pato Maria Gomes Vinho Branco - Beiras
- '11 Luis Pato Vinhas Velhas Branco - Beiras
- '12 Quinta do Ameal Loureiro Vinho Verde
- '12 Quinta Casal do Monteiro Branco - Tejo
- '11 JPR Lima Loureiro Vinho Verde
- '11 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde - ChicagoNow
- '11 Vera Alvarinho Vinho Verde
- '08 Quinta do Feital Auratus Alvarinho-Trajadura
- '09 Quinta do Cardo Síria Beira Interior
- '09 Quinta do Cardo Síria Beira Interior - ChicagoNow
- '09 Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Vinho Verde Muros Antigos
- '03 Monte d'Oiro Reserva Lisboa
- '08 Loios Tinto - Alentejano
- Wachau
- '06 Prager Riesling Smaragd Bodenstein
- '05 Prager Riesling Steinreigl
- '03 Prager Riesling Bodenstein
- '02 Prager Riesling Kaiserberg
- '99 Prager Riesling Steinreigl (3)
- '07 Prager Riesling Steinriegl Federspiel
- '09 Prager Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Bodenstein
- '03 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Axpoint
- '07 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Hochrain
- '04 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Rotes Tor
- '07 Rudi Pichler Riesling Federspiel
- '06 Rudi Pichler Riesling Federspiel
- '04 Loimer Langenlois Riesling
- Kremstal
- Kamptal
- Südsteiermark
- Burgenland
- Rheingau
- Mosel
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett
- '10 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken
- '10 Selbach Incline Riesling
- '09 Selbach-Oster Riesling Spätlese
- '08 Dr. Loosen Riesling
- Rheinhessen
- Pfalz
- Napa/Sonoma
- '06 Venge Cabernet Family Reserve
- '08 Merryvale Starmont Chardonnay
- '09 Orin Swift Veladora
- NV Mumm Napa Cuvée M
- '09 Freeman Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast
- '07 Seghesio Zinfandel
- '06 Seghesio Old Vine Zinfandel
- '04 Joseph Swan Syrah Trenton Estate
- '06 Capiaux Pinot Noir Widdoes RRV
- '09 Trader Joe's Grand Reserve Pinot Noir - RRV
- Paso Robles
- '06 Villa Creek Mas De Maha (6)
- '08 Villa Creek Mas De Maha (2)
- '08 Villa Creek Mas De Maha - ChicagoNow
- '10 Villa Creek Willow Creek Cuvée
- '12 Villa Creek Rosé
- '11 Villa Creek Rosé
- '11 Villa Creek White
- '10 Villa Creek Garnacha
- '09 Villa Creek Granadina
- '09 Villa Creek Avenger
- '09 Villa Creek Willow Creek Cuvée
- '07 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel
- '07 Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas
- '11 TJ's Reserve Syrah
- Santa Barbara
- '12 A Tribute To Grace Grenache - SBH
- '12 A Tribute To Grace Grenache - SBC
- '07 Tensley Syrah Tierra Alta Vineyard
- '13 Palmina Sparkling Malvasia
- '13 Palmina Sparkling Barbera
- '12 Palmina Botasea Rosado de Palmina
- '12 Palmina Dolcetto - Santa Barbara
- '10 Palmina Arneis - Santa Ynez
- '11 Palmina Malvasia Bianca
- '07 Palmina Malvasia Bianca - Santa Ynez
- '09 Palmina Barbera
- '06 Palmina Nebbiolo Honea
- '07 Palmina Nebbiolo
- '11 Palmina Pinot Grigio
- '10 Palmina Tocai Friulano
- More Central Coast
- '12 Broc Cellars Cab Franc - Central Coast
- '12 Birichino Malvasia - Monterey
- '13 Matthiasson Tendu Red/White - Yolo (2)
- '10 Neyers Carignan Evangelho - Contra Costa
- '10 Neyers Mourvèdre Evangelho - Contra Costa
- '09 Neyers Syrah Old Lakeville - Somona Coast
- '10 Neyers Sage Canyon - Napa Valley
- '09 Verdad Tempranillo Edna Valley
- '11 Three Wine Co. Mataro
- '10 Rock Wall Tannat The Palindrome
- '07 Sanguis Oracle Of Delphi
- '05 Sanguis Bossman
- '05 Sanguis Optimist
- '06 Lucia Syrah Gary's Vineyard
- '08 Quinta Cruz Touriga San Antonio Valley
- '08 Bonny Doon Ca' Del Solo Albariño
- '05 Graff Family Consensus
- '07 Edna Valley Pinot Noir
- '08 Babcock Identity Crisis
- '06 Rosenblum Mourvèdre
- '04 Terre Rouge Sentinel/Pyramid - Shenandoah
- '10 Calera Viognier Mt. Harlan
- North Coast
- '12 Arnot-Roberts Trousseau (2)
- '13 Arnot-Roberts Rosé
- '13 Broc Cellars Valdiguié Solano
- '12 Broc Cellars Carbonic Carignan
- '13 Donkey & Goat Carignane - Mendocino
- '12 TJ's Reserve Barbera - Mendocino
- '07 Enotria Arneis
- '07 Gregory Graham Zinfandel
- '07 Francis Ford Coppola Votre Santé Chardonnay
- '06 M. Cosentino Pinot Noir
- NV TJ's North Coast Sparkling
- More Regions - Culled
- '12 Mark Herold Acha Blanca (2)
- '12 Forlorn Hope Que Saudade Verdelho - Sierra FH
- '10 Forlorn Hope La Gitana Torrontés - Lodi
- '13 Forlorn Hope Ost-Intrigen St. Laurent - Carneros
- '12 Scholium Rhododactylos - Lodi
- '04 Twisted Oak Tempranillo - Calaveras County
- '08 Twisted Oak Ol' Chumbucket - Calaveras County
- '08 Twisted Oak The Spaniard - Calaveras County
- '06 Twisted Oak The Spaniard - Calaveras County
- '07 Twisted Oak River of Skulls - Calaveras County
- '07 Twisted Oak Parcel 17 - Calaveras County
- NV Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot #61
- NV Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs Brüt
- '08 Orin Swift Saldo - Culled (2)
- '06 Bokisch Graciano-Lodi (3)
- '07 Bokisch Albariño-Lodi
- '08 Chariot Gypsy-Culled
- '04 Chariot Sangiovese-Culled
- '07 JRE Tradition-Culled
- 'NV Thackrey Pleiades XVII
- '08 Bogle Phantom
- Yamhill-Carlton
- Dundee Hills
- McMinnville
- Eola-Amity Hills
- More Willamette - Culled
- '06 Archery Summit PC
- '10 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '09 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '08 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '07 Antica Terra Pinot Noir
- '05 Ken Wright Elton Vineyard Willamette
- '05 J.K. Carriere Pinot Noir
- '07 A to Z Pinot Noir
- '07 Anne Amie Pinot Noir Willamette
- '07 Ken Wright Pinot Blanc
- '07 Gypsy Dancer Pinot Gris
- '08 Hamacher Pinot Noir "H" Series
- '08 Castle Rock
- NV Sokol Blosser Evolution (15th)
- Ponzi
- '06 Ponzi Pinot Noir (4)
- '08 Ponzi Pinot Noir (3)
- '08 Ponzi Pinot Noir Reserve
- '09 Ponzi Pinot Noir (4)
- '09 Ponzi Pinot Noir Tavola (2)
- '12 Ponzi Rosato Rosé of Pinot Noir
- '10 Ponzi Rosato Rosé of Pinot Noir
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Noir Rosé
- '09 Ponzi Dolcetto
- '11 Ponzi Arneis (5)
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Gris (3)
- '11 Ponzi Pinot Blanc
- '10 Ponzi Vino Gelato
- Southern Oregon
- Columbia Valley
- Yakima Valley
- '08 Efesté Syrah Jolie Bouche Boushey Vineyard
- '08 Efesté Syrah Ceidleigh - Red Mountain
- '09 Owen Roe Cab Franc Rosa Mystica
- '09 Owen Roe Cab Franc Slide Mountain
- '10 Owen Roe Lady Rosa Syrah
- '08 Owen Roe Lady Rosa Syrah
- '08 Owen Roe Yakima Valley Red
- '08 Owen Roe Merlot Dubrul Vineyard
- '09 Owen Roe Sinister Hand
- '11 Maison Bleue Jaja
- '08 Gramercy Cellars The Third Man
- '07 J. Bookwalter The Protagonist
- '06 Long Shadows Sequel
- '08 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling
- '08 Tamarack Firehouse Red
- Walla Walla
- Horse Heaven Hills
- Other Wash - Culled
- McLaren Vale
- Barossa
- '06 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra
- '03 Hobbs Gregor Shiraz (3)
- '04 Two Hands Beautiful Stranger
- '04 Two Hands Beautiful Stranger - Chicago Now
- '10 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier
- '05 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier - ChicagoNow
- '05 Yalumba HP Shiraz-Viognier (2)
- '04 Schild Estate Shiraz
- '05 Schild Estate Shiraz
- '09 Schild Estate GMS (3)
- '05 First Drop Two Percent
- '08 Langmeil Grenache The Fifth Wave
- '05 Colonial Estate Exile
- '05 Colonial Estate Envoy (2)
- '08 Yalumba Viognier
- '08 Turkey Flat Rosé
- '07 Turkey Flat Rosé
- '08 Peter Lehmann Layers
- Other Aussie
- New Zealand
- North
- NV Fattoria Moretto Lambrusco
- '13 Cleto Chiarli Lambrusco Fondatore
- '10 La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana
- '10 La Spinetta Vermentino Toscana - ChicagoNow
- '12 Bastianich Rosato di Refosco Venezia Giulia
- '11 Bibi Graetz Casamatta Bianco Toscana
- '06 Kris Pinot Nero
- '07 Prá Soave
- '08 Gini Soave
- '00 Tommasi Ca'Florian Amarone DV
- '07 Monte del Fra Amarone Classico
- '06 Conte de Bregonzo Amarone
- '05 Colli Di Parma Sparkling Malvasia
- NV Lini 910 Lambrusco Bianco Sparkling
- '09 Monastero Suore Cistercensi Coenobium
- '05 TJ's Sagrantino di Montefalco
- '10 Paitin Roero Arneis
- South
- Frank Cornellisen Susucaru #5 (4) - Sicily
- '11 Arianna Occhipinti IL Frappato Sicily
- '11 Arianna Occhipinti TAMÌ Frappato Sicily
- '10 Centonze Frappato Sicily
- '09 Sella E Mosca Riserva Cannonau di Sargedna
- '12 Terre Nere Etna Rosato Sicily
- '07 Archeo Nero d'Avola - Sicily
- '13 San Salvatore Falanghina - Campania
- NV Taburno Falanghina Spumante (3) - Campania
- '10 De Falco Falanghina - Campania (3)
- '05 Villa Carafa Asprinio - Campania
- '09 Argiolas Rosado - Sardinia
- Sangria
- Greece
- Hungary
- Other
- Argus Tepache Pineapple Wine (2)
- '09 Alain Graillot Syrah Syrocco - Morocco
- NV Vipava Extra Brut - Slovenia
- '09 Matosevic Alba - Croatia (2)
- '11 Domaine Douloufakis Malvasia - Crete (2)
- '06 Slavyantsi Rosé - Bulgaria
- '08 Neuchátel Oeil de Perdrix PN - Swiss
- '09 The Wolftrap - South Africa
- '07 Dr. Konstantin Frank R-SD - NY
- NV Gruet Brut Rosé - New Mexico
- Extebarri - Basque Country
- Mugaritz - Basque Country
- Arzak - San Sebastian
- El Trujal del Abuelo - Cihuri
- Astrid y Gaston - Madrid
- Las Tortilas de Gabino - Madrid
- Ad Hoc - Napa
- Ubuntu - Napa
- Chez Panisse - Berkeley
- Zuni Café - San Francisco
- DC - Komi, Jaleo, Minibar, 2 Amy's
- Lola - Cleveland
- Bacchus - Milwaukee
- Blackbird (4)
- Elizabeth
- Moto
- Mado
- Taxim
- Avec
- The Purple Pig
- Ceres Table
- The Bristol
- The Girl & The Goat
- Urban Belly
- Anteprima
- Semiramis
- Indie Café
Showing posts with label 2009 Matosevic Alba. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2009 Matosevic Alba. Show all posts
Thursday, April 21, 2011
#181 - Tuna, Cannellini Beans, Arugula & Tomatoes With Two Non-Italian Whites
That's what the meal needed.
An Italian white.
But nope. I had to try to get creative and see what else would work.
Thought process: Cannellini beans in cassoulet has worked well in the past with rosé. Tuna niçoise, the same. Too miserable of a day for rosé. We like rosé any time of the year except on days that straddle the time between damp and freakin' damp and miserable.
Basil, lemon juice and shallots were in play. Albariño. Rocky rocks would have been great. Minerals always good. Oddly didn't trip our trigger at the time.
Sancerre, New Zealand or California sauvignon blanc is the typical recommendation for dishes such as this. Just had a Sancerre and I just didn't want it. A California one would probably have been lovely.
Prager riesling is a bit of a force-fit for the meal but we had a bit of a jones. I liked the Croatian Malvasia three weeks ago with monkfish and veggies and just bought two more. I didn't heed my own notes. "Light package." This meal needed more white wine guts, a wine made for the warmer weather food on the plate, a wine with more mouth-watering acid to take everything to a better place.
That didn't happen but we ended up fine. The food was so good we ended up not caring.
Food: Tuna and cannellini beans with arugula, grape tomatoes and Seeduction bread
Whole Foods tuna cooked rare. Simple salt and pepper seasoning. Beautiful slab of tuna for $13 taking what we learned from previous tuna meals and buying a smaller piece. Sometimes, too much tuna is TOO MUCH TUNA!
Built on a bed of arugula and basil with a pile of cannellini beans in the center cooked from dry beans (key) and tuna on top. Grape tomatoes sprinkled around and a vinaigrette of extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, white balsamic vinegar, oregano, parsley, shallot and mustard drizzled over everything.
Cannellini beans were the star, tasting at times like the essence peppered mashed potatoes without the mush.
But the surprise came in the acid level. Acid galore in the preparation but the acid was so well integrated it never overtook one bite. Little, proper spikes everywhere.
Whole Foods Seeduction bread - best bread in the world - to munch on.
A fresh and clean meal with substance. In other words, beautifully balanced food that felt needed after mac and cheese pizza.
Wine: 2009 Matosevic Alba Malvazjia Istarska ($15 - WDC) & 2007 Prager Riesling Steinriegl Federspiel ($33 - Binny's)
Three weeks ago, we adored the Matosevic Alba Croatian Malvasia. Pretty herbs and citrus with a herb water core all wrapped in a light package. This time, not so much. A baby aspirin and gauze quality dominated while overall coming off a bit clunky. Tasted like we were drinking a glass of wine that had been left open in a hospital supply closet for too long. Not terrible, just not interesting in the least. Some bottle variation here.
While the Prager should have been saved, we had no real attachment to it after reading the early reports on this one. What resulted was that this one could probably have used a decant as it became infinitely more interesting as it warmed and opened up an hour into the meal. Started out with a boring blend of limestone, lime and choppy acid but settled into something more friendly. Became more graceful and subdued showing a transition from lime to a more delicate lemon and pear fruit core with the minerals becoming more fine and a floral note popping up. Light, almost pretty sugar but the alcohol separated itself out throughout the meal, becoming less so as it opened up and settled down but still there. Almost dry, more off-dry. Overall though, it felt like a wine that went through a brutal workout to get to the bottle. Never elegant, which is something Prager excels at. Nice, just never pretty. I'm still trying to figure out if federspiel is even my bag. My limited experience so far says the bigger smaragd style is more my speed.
But it worked best with the food.
Pairing: 84 No clashy but no matchy
We were fine. Italian white was the way to go, though. Should have picked up a Greco when I thought of it. A Friulano or even a Soave would probably have worked beautifully as well. Or jumping into a California sauvignon blanc might have been at least interesting.
Became one of those pairings though that emphasized what it was not. No clash. The wine satisfied the basic definition of being there and being welcome.
Nothing exciting but the food made up for it in spades.
Simple, delicious, well-prepared food can do that.
After waiting tables in Italian restaurants for nine (gasp!) years, I had given up on Italian food as something I wanted to eat. Got sick of the whole concept of the style after serving it so much. Too familiar and wanted flavors not associated with work. That's changed dramatically in the last year.
If you told me I'd be craving Italian food with Italian wine a year ago, I'd have thought you were a crazy person. Last night again reaffirmed its newfound goodness, even when both elements weren't present.
Or should I say, because both elements weren't present.
Friday, April 1, 2011
#176 - Monkfish & Veggie Explosion With Two Whites
I recently had an amazingly bland risotto primavera dish at an Italian restaurant on Chicago's west side, which reminded me why, growing up, purely vegetarian dishes in the small town world of the Midwest never got ordered.
The vegetables came off 'healthy'.
I choked that primavera down, regretting my order upon first sight and really regretting it after the first bite.
Bland, bland, bland. No care was taken to elevate the veggies at all. It really was just risotto with chopped-up vegetables tossed in at the finish.
Last night's meal was not one of those.
We can thank you, Tom Colicchio and your recipe for making a heaping plateful of veggies taste wanted, needed and utterly delicious.
Food: Monkfish and vegetable explosion with Mexican pearl municion pasta
About 10 ounces of monkish from Fish Guy on Elston. Great shop and a grand total of $7 for very fresh monkfish. Five ounces each, slathered in a blend of one head of watercress, two tablespoons of mayo and lemon juice, baked in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Meaty fish and mingled well with the watercress sauce. Tasted like spring along with the rest of the plate.
Colicchio's Food & Wine recipe: Sauteé leeks, fennel, celery, onion, carrots, celery, garlic. Add artichoke crowns, Muscadet, water: reduce. Add fava beans, asparagus: warm. Add diced tomatoes, parsley, chives, mint. Low and slow. Bringing the veggies up slow allowed every flavor to infuse into each other without becoming muddled, taking care to make sure the tomatoes were added last to finish instead of having the acid in the tomatoes change the dish completely into a broken down mush.
Great mixture of textures. Went back and forth between fresh/herby and deep/sweaty. Ate every bit of a very heavy plate. Served over Mexican pasta of pearl municion. Looks like baby Israeli couscous, tastes like a darker version of that in mini-pearl form with more resistance (and 49 cents a bag at Harvestime).
A meal that a pesco-vegetarian would swoon over and a meal that we completely loved.
A meal though that probably needed a sauvignon blanc, but we ended up just fine with a white that reminded us of Portugal in every way and another white that will be bought very soon.
Wine: 2009 Niepoort Tiara Branco ($29 - Binny's) & 2009 Matosevic Alba Malvazjia Istarska ($14 - WDC)
The Tiara, a wine we had at DOC in the Douro Valley and wanted to revisit, is a blend of the Portuguese white grapes Codega, Rabigato, Donzelinho, Viosinho, Cercial and others. Tough to describe the allure of Portuguese whites. Certainly full of wet rocks. Green apple and citrus notes abound. But it's how they combine in a unique way that draws us in, like every flavor is jammed together and the winemaker says, "Here. I like it and don't care if you don't." Sharp, mouthwatering acidity that signals it as a perfect hot summer wine. Great grip with an edge of lime and rust in a great way. A lot of grace and finesse here though, with an overall impression of lightness, even a bit steely. Tastes intentional and refined. $29 is a bit much, reminding me of the Do Ferreiro, a very good wine that I've thought about a lot since having it but left me wanting in terms of the price tag. In the end, both of us thought we'd buy it again after much hemming and hawing.
The Alba, a Croatian Malvasia, took no hemming and hawing. It will be bought very soon. Herbs and citrus galore but all wrapped in a light package. A three-act play here. Blind, it could have been a lighter Királyudvar. Touch of light honey and light cream around a citrus and apricot core but at the mid-palate it turns into shockingly refreshing herb-tinged water (rosemary?) with all of the fruit fading away, only to return in a more subtle form on the finish. Refreshing as all get-out and interesting as hell. Great stuff and a bottle that could be sucked down without food to great effect.
Pairing: 85 Nothing great, should have gone with a sauvignon blanc, but we were fine
No great enhancement, really. The Alba seemed to work the best of the two bottles with its hints of herbs mingling nicely with the herbs on the plate, but the Tiara played well with the monkfish, tasting like a flashback to DOC.
Mostly, it came down to harkening back to Portugal in white form for the first time since our trip and trying a Croatian Malvasia for the first time.
Great food, interesting wine.
If nothing goes off the rails in terms of pairing, sometimes that's enough.
The vegetables came off 'healthy'.
I choked that primavera down, regretting my order upon first sight and really regretting it after the first bite.
Bland, bland, bland. No care was taken to elevate the veggies at all. It really was just risotto with chopped-up vegetables tossed in at the finish.
Last night's meal was not one of those.
We can thank you, Tom Colicchio and your recipe for making a heaping plateful of veggies taste wanted, needed and utterly delicious.
Food: Monkfish and vegetable explosion with Mexican pearl municion pasta
About 10 ounces of monkish from Fish Guy on Elston. Great shop and a grand total of $7 for very fresh monkfish. Five ounces each, slathered in a blend of one head of watercress, two tablespoons of mayo and lemon juice, baked in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Meaty fish and mingled well with the watercress sauce. Tasted like spring along with the rest of the plate.
Colicchio's Food & Wine recipe: Sauteé leeks, fennel, celery, onion, carrots, celery, garlic. Add artichoke crowns, Muscadet, water: reduce. Add fava beans, asparagus: warm. Add diced tomatoes, parsley, chives, mint. Low and slow. Bringing the veggies up slow allowed every flavor to infuse into each other without becoming muddled, taking care to make sure the tomatoes were added last to finish instead of having the acid in the tomatoes change the dish completely into a broken down mush.
Great mixture of textures. Went back and forth between fresh/herby and deep/sweaty. Ate every bit of a very heavy plate. Served over Mexican pasta of pearl municion. Looks like baby Israeli couscous, tastes like a darker version of that in mini-pearl form with more resistance (and 49 cents a bag at Harvestime).
A meal that a pesco-vegetarian would swoon over and a meal that we completely loved.
A meal though that probably needed a sauvignon blanc, but we ended up just fine with a white that reminded us of Portugal in every way and another white that will be bought very soon.
Wine: 2009 Niepoort Tiara Branco ($29 - Binny's) & 2009 Matosevic Alba Malvazjia Istarska ($14 - WDC)
The Tiara, a wine we had at DOC in the Douro Valley and wanted to revisit, is a blend of the Portuguese white grapes Codega, Rabigato, Donzelinho, Viosinho, Cercial and others. Tough to describe the allure of Portuguese whites. Certainly full of wet rocks. Green apple and citrus notes abound. But it's how they combine in a unique way that draws us in, like every flavor is jammed together and the winemaker says, "Here. I like it and don't care if you don't." Sharp, mouthwatering acidity that signals it as a perfect hot summer wine. Great grip with an edge of lime and rust in a great way. A lot of grace and finesse here though, with an overall impression of lightness, even a bit steely. Tastes intentional and refined. $29 is a bit much, reminding me of the Do Ferreiro, a very good wine that I've thought about a lot since having it but left me wanting in terms of the price tag. In the end, both of us thought we'd buy it again after much hemming and hawing.
The Alba, a Croatian Malvasia, took no hemming and hawing. It will be bought very soon. Herbs and citrus galore but all wrapped in a light package. A three-act play here. Blind, it could have been a lighter Királyudvar. Touch of light honey and light cream around a citrus and apricot core but at the mid-palate it turns into shockingly refreshing herb-tinged water (rosemary?) with all of the fruit fading away, only to return in a more subtle form on the finish. Refreshing as all get-out and interesting as hell. Great stuff and a bottle that could be sucked down without food to great effect.
Pairing: 85 Nothing great, should have gone with a sauvignon blanc, but we were fine
No great enhancement, really. The Alba seemed to work the best of the two bottles with its hints of herbs mingling nicely with the herbs on the plate, but the Tiara played well with the monkfish, tasting like a flashback to DOC.
Mostly, it came down to harkening back to Portugal in white form for the first time since our trip and trying a Croatian Malvasia for the first time.
Great food, interesting wine.
If nothing goes off the rails in terms of pairing, sometimes that's enough.
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