Showing posts with label 2009 Matosevic Alba. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 2009 Matosevic Alba. Show all posts

Thursday, April 21, 2011

#181 - Tuna, Cannellini Beans, Arugula & Tomatoes With Two Non-Italian Whites


That's what the meal needed.

An Italian white.

But nope.  I had to try to get creative and see what else would work.

Thought process:  Cannellini beans in cassoulet has worked well in the past with rosé.  Tuna niçoise, the same.  Too miserable of a day for rosé.  We like rosé any time of the year except on days that straddle the time between damp and freakin' damp and miserable.

Basil, lemon juice and shallots were in play.  Albariño.  Rocky rocks would have been great.  Minerals always good.  Oddly didn't trip our trigger at the time.  

Sancerre, New Zealand or California sauvignon blanc is the typical recommendation for dishes such as this.  Just had a Sancerre and I just didn't want it.  A California one would probably have been lovely.

Prager riesling is a bit of a force-fit for the meal but we had a bit of a jones.  I liked the Croatian Malvasia three weeks ago with monkfish and veggies and just bought two more.  I didn't heed my own notes.  "Light package."  This meal needed more white wine guts, a wine made for the warmer weather food on the plate, a wine with more mouth-watering acid to take everything to a better place.

That didn't happen but we ended up fine.  The food was so good we ended up not caring.

Food:  Tuna and cannellini beans with arugula, grape tomatoes and Seeduction bread

Whole Foods tuna cooked rare.  Simple salt and pepper seasoning.  Beautiful slab of tuna for $13 taking what we learned from previous tuna meals and buying a smaller piece.  Sometimes, too much tuna is TOO MUCH TUNA!

Built on a bed of arugula and basil with a pile of cannellini beans in the center cooked from dry beans (key) and tuna on top.  Grape tomatoes sprinkled around and a vinaigrette of extra virgin olive oil, lemon juice, white balsamic vinegar, oregano, parsley, shallot and mustard drizzled over everything.

Cannellini beans were the star, tasting at times like the essence peppered mashed potatoes without the mush.

But the surprise came in the acid level.  Acid galore in the preparation but the acid was so well integrated it never overtook one bite.  Little, proper spikes everywhere.

Whole Foods Seeduction bread - best bread in the world - to munch on.

A fresh and clean meal with substance.  In other words, beautifully balanced food that felt needed after mac and cheese pizza.

Wine:  2009 Matosevic Alba Malvazjia Istarska ($15 - WDC) & 2007 Prager Riesling Steinriegl Federspiel ($33 - Binny's)

Three weeks ago, we adored the Matosevic Alba Croatian Malvasia.  Pretty herbs and citrus with a herb water core all wrapped in a light package.  This time, not so much.  A baby aspirin and gauze quality dominated while overall coming off a bit clunky.  Tasted like we were drinking a glass of wine that had been left open in a hospital supply closet for too long.  Not terrible, just not interesting in the least.  Some bottle variation here.

While the Prager should have been saved, we had no real attachment to it after reading the early reports on this one.  What resulted was that this one could probably have used a decant as it became infinitely more interesting as it warmed and opened up an hour into the meal.  Started out with a boring blend of limestone, lime and choppy acid but settled into something more friendly.  Became more graceful and subdued showing a transition from lime to a more delicate lemon and pear fruit core with the minerals becoming more fine and a floral note popping up.  Light, almost pretty sugar but the alcohol separated itself out throughout the meal, becoming less so as it opened up and settled down but still there.  Almost dry, more off-dry.  Overall though, it felt like a wine that went through a brutal workout to get to the bottle.  Never elegant, which is something Prager excels at.  Nice, just never pretty.  I'm still trying to figure out if federspiel is even my bag.  My limited experience so far says the bigger smaragd style is more my speed.

But it worked best with the food.

Pairing:  84  No clashy but no matchy

We were fine.  Italian white was the way to go, though.  Should have picked up a Greco when I thought of it.  A Friulano or even a Soave would probably have worked beautifully as well.  Or jumping into a California sauvignon blanc might have been at least interesting.

Became one of those pairings though that emphasized what it was not.  No clash.  The wine satisfied the basic definition of being there and being welcome.

Nothing exciting but the food made up for it in spades.

Simple, delicious, well-prepared food can do that.

After waiting tables in Italian restaurants for nine (gasp!) years, I had given up on Italian food as something I wanted to eat.  Got sick of the whole concept of the style after serving it so much.  Too familiar and wanted flavors not associated with work.  That's changed dramatically in the last year.

If you told me I'd be craving Italian food with Italian wine a year ago, I'd have thought you were a crazy person.  Last night again reaffirmed its newfound goodness, even when both elements weren't present.

Or should I say, because both elements weren't present.

Friday, April 1, 2011

#176 - Monkfish & Veggie Explosion With Two Whites

I recently had an amazingly bland risotto primavera dish at an Italian restaurant on Chicago's west side, which reminded me why, growing up, purely vegetarian dishes in the small town world of the Midwest never got ordered.

The vegetables came off 'healthy'.

I choked that primavera down, regretting my order upon first sight and really regretting it after the first bite.

Bland, bland, bland.  No care was taken to elevate the veggies at all.  It really was just risotto with chopped-up vegetables tossed in at the finish.

Last night's meal was not one of those.

We can thank you, Tom Colicchio and your recipe for making a heaping plateful of veggies taste wanted, needed and utterly delicious.

Food:  Monkfish and vegetable explosion with Mexican pearl municion pasta

About 10 ounces of monkish from Fish Guy on Elston.  Great shop and a grand total of $7 for very fresh monkfish.  Five ounces each, slathered in a blend of one head of watercress, two tablespoons of mayo and lemon juice, baked in the oven at 350 degrees for 20 minutes.  Meaty fish and mingled well with the watercress sauce.  Tasted like spring along with the rest of the plate.

Colicchio's Food & Wine recipe:  Sauteé leeks, fennel, celery, onion, carrots, celery, garlic.  Add artichoke crowns, Muscadet, water:  reduce. Add fava beans, asparagus:  warm.  Add diced tomatoes, parsley, chives, mint.  Low and slow.  Bringing the veggies up slow allowed every flavor to infuse into each other without becoming muddled, taking care to make sure the tomatoes were added last to finish instead of having the acid in the tomatoes change the dish completely into a broken down mush.

Great mixture of textures.  Went back and forth between fresh/herby and deep/sweaty.  Ate every bit of a very heavy plate.  Served over Mexican pasta of pearl municion.  Looks like baby Israeli couscous, tastes like a darker version of that in mini-pearl form with more resistance (and 49 cents a bag at Harvestime).

A meal that a pesco-vegetarian would swoon over and a meal that we completely loved.

A meal though that probably needed a sauvignon blanc, but we ended up just fine with a white that reminded us of Portugal in every way and another white that will be bought very soon.

Wine:  2009 Niepoort Tiara Branco ($29 - Binny's) & 2009 Matosevic Alba Malvazjia Istarska ($14 - WDC)

The Tiara, a wine we had at DOC in the Douro Valley and wanted to revisit, is a blend of the Portuguese white grapes Codega, Rabigato, Donzelinho, Viosinho, Cercial and others.  Tough to describe the allure of Portuguese whites.  Certainly full of wet rocks.  Green apple and citrus notes abound.  But it's how they combine in a unique way that draws us in, like every flavor is jammed together and the winemaker says, "Here.  I like it and don't care if you don't."  Sharp, mouthwatering acidity that signals it as a perfect hot summer wine.  Great grip with an edge of lime and rust in a great way.  A lot of grace and finesse here though, with an overall impression of lightness, even a bit steely.  Tastes intentional and refined.  $29 is a bit much, reminding me of the Do Ferreiro, a very good wine that I've thought about a lot since having it but left me wanting in terms of the price tag.  In the end, both of us thought we'd buy it again after much hemming and hawing.

The Alba, a Croatian Malvasia, took no hemming and hawing.  It will be bought very soon.  Herbs and citrus galore but all wrapped in a light package.  A three-act play here.  Blind, it could have been a lighter Királyudvar.  Touch of light honey and light cream around a citrus and apricot core but at the mid-palate it turns into shockingly refreshing herb-tinged water (rosemary?) with all of the fruit fading away, only to return in a more subtle form on the finish.  Refreshing as all get-out and interesting as hell.  Great stuff and a bottle that could be sucked down without food to great effect.

Pairing:  85  Nothing great, should have gone with a sauvignon blanc, but we were fine

No great enhancement, really.  The Alba seemed to work the best of the two bottles with its hints of herbs mingling nicely with the herbs on the plate, but the Tiara played well with the monkfish, tasting like a flashback to DOC.

Mostly, it came down to harkening back to Portugal in white form for the first time since our trip and trying a Croatian Malvasia for the first time.

Great food, interesting wine.

If nothing goes off the rails in terms of pairing, sometimes that's enough.