#218 - Blackbird

We saw the beginnings of a chef transition back in December at Blackbird and it was right on script for a place of the quality of the restaurant.

David Posey, Mike Sheerin's sous chef for I believe a couple of years (and an Alinea/Trio vet), had just taken the reins.  The impression of a definitive change in the preparation and flavor came in the small details then.

The transition was gradual - at least through one seasonal menu, we only visit Blackbird a couple of times a year - with echoes of an overarching Sheerin molecular style still present but it tasted more back to basics in the best way possible, like it was preparing for an exploration into a broader, more elemental scope down the road.

#142 - Blackbird

A chef changeover at Blackbird and a six-month hiatus demanded a return to our favorite restaurant in Chicago, hands down.

Go here and here to see previous visits in the past year.

The chef changeover wasn't a big deal. Mike Sheerin recently left the day-to-day to pursue his own venture (cooking a sampling of that at Chalkboard in Lakeview tonight), handing everything over to David Posey, the sous chef under Sheerin and before that, an Alinea/Trio guy. So...you know...good hands.

Right now, it seems that little has deviated from the Sheerin past with a few notable exceptions. Simple and clean is the order of the day, seeming like one, maybe two elements on each plate were taken off. Previously, interplay in each course felt like two games were being played to great effect, or a triangulation of sorts with the protein and one or two elements creating a great bite and an accompanying starch doing its own original thing with everything tied together with one element playing the vital and always delicious peacemaker. That separateness followed by a togetherness always wowed me.

Now, that togetherness takes the stage early. Accompaniments support the star in a more direct, obvious way and the results, at least last night, made for one great meal right in line with our experiences over the last three years. Seamless but sufficiently tweaked to create an identity. And the acid seems to have been upped an oh-so subtle notch. It's coming in more raw ways, subtly sprinkled throughout the meal to lift everything as a collective experience instead of overhauling each individual dish. I felt it at the end more than during the meal, which was sneaky and welcome.

Six months. Way too long. And it was as good as ever. Utterly original, perfectly cooked food with the service and atmosphere to match. Unpretentious, friendly, evocative food that nonetheless sits on an entirely different plane and always, always, always worth every cent and more.

Menu

Amuse: Skate wing and sesame seeds (? - we were talking and didn't hear the details)

And started with two glasses of NV Argyle Brüt Sparkling Rosé Willamette Valley

Appetizers:

Scallops with Brussels sprouts and sauerkraut powder/emulsion (?)

Paired with 2008 Domaine Paul Blanck Alsace Pinot Gris

Smoked suckling pig with hama hama oyster, fall giardiniera, sunchokes and hazelnuts

Intermezzo: Garbanzo soup with asian pear, garbanzo falafel and caramelized egg yolk with sumac

Entrées:

Roasted colorado lamb saddle with salsify, fried lentils, licorice root and smoked olives

Braised short rib with parsley root, grapefruit, elderflower and red wine

Paired with a bottle of 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge & two glasses of 2005 Jérôme Bressy Gourt Des Mautens Rasteau Rouge

Dessert:

Chocolate ganache with tahitian vanilla gastrique and parsnip ice cream

paired with Barros 1977 Colheita

Chestnut brioche with pear, pedro ximenez and tarragon ice cream

paired with ‘05 Kracher Scheurebe Tba ‘Number 4’

Finished with passion fruit chocolates and espresso

The scallops and the lamb saddle (again) ruled their respective courses for us and both desserts just couldn't have been more spectacular. The ganache looked almost too pretty to eat (like a Kandinsky) and the brioche came off beautifully savory, rounded out perfectly by the fruit in the Kracher. We've come to know the proteins of Blackbird but I've always been blowed away how they're reinvented while stayed true to something like a lineage or ancestry of the menu.

Things have evolved in thoughtful and organic ways over the last three years, almost like great care has been taken to ensure that the personality of the cuisine always stays true to what Blackbird is and was all about. Cuz you can't make this stuff at home, going there is like visiting an old friend that is and always will be the most interesting person in the room.

The wines, a few notes: The 2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge (mourvèdre dominant blend) - tight stuff and drunk too young. Decanted to get the game going. Purplish red in the glass and gamey on the nose. Floral blackberry dominated with an underlying smoke and flickers of herbs. Bit of red licorice. Just too young, I think, to be truly expressive but served up something delicious with the lamb saddle while the grapefruit in the short rib destroyed it. Serviceable is the best descriptor, but I'm curious enough to get on the Bandol red bandwagon. First Tempier Rouge I've had outside of a tasting.

The surprise came with two glasses given by our server to finish out our entrées after we killed off the Tempier bottle. Nose of briary red and black fruits and beef fat. Shimmered in the glass with purple and reddish hues alternating back and forth. Explosive on the palate. A huge, entirely together attack of blackberry, blueberry, cherry and licorice, all rubbed in fine earth and drops of blood just for good measure. Jumped around everywhere like a light show and dropped down the throat like silk with a finish that seemed to keep going forever. Gasped after the first drink. Probably the best sip of wine I've had by itself, not related to food, in the last year (?).

Turned out to be the 2005 Gourt Des Mautens Rasteau, a wine we had at the restaurant last April that made me go out and buy more. Seemed a bit closed but delicious then and left both of us stunned and thankful it's showing this well now. Served by the glass at the restaurant and our server said it had been open for about 45 minutes. Freakin' great news. The Chicago market got a ton of this two or so years ago and couldn't sell it at the $60 price tag. A closeout came and Howard's is currently selling it for $36. Get. It. By golly, this is a good one.

Great meal, great time. Always.

In the Chicago restaurant scene, as it vacillates here and there, from tacos and whiskey to gastropubs to farm-to-table to cupcakes to back to Belguim to micro-regional peasant to whatever else, for us, Blackbird is and will be the thread in our time here, however long that is.

It's in it for the long-term and you can taste it. Rare thing, that, in so many ways.

#97 - Blackbird

I've blathered on about Blackbird on numerous occasions. Our last visit in April (#63) was the best experience we'd ever had there.

Last night fell somewhere in the middle of the pack.

To plagarize myself and put it into context:

"Blackbird is consistently innovative, always right on in preparation, never stuffy and always filling. As with every great meal, you remember the little things. The French toast on the sweet corn bourvois, the sesame gnocchi on the short rib, the wine pairing with the pork collar and the fact that the octopus confit made us reconsider octopus, period."

While we had a good meal last night and our waiter (half the reason we go there) was his usual great with some fantastic recommendations and conversation, it was the little touches that we missed, if only the slightest bit.

Both of us thought that in our experience at Blackbird, it's always been the fall menus that made us wet our pants. In the fall, a chef is allowed to mess around with bolder, more intricate and layered flavors instead of making sure to first keep it light, which usually leads to a lot of in-season fruit and veggie play with only accents of darker, more brooding flavors. It's about the freshness; that's nice and welcome and this was. It just wasn't as memorable as other times (and seasons), something that has translated to other restaurants in town as well for us.

Summer seems to box in even the best chefs in our food world, at least with regards to what we typically want, which usually is a surprising freshness popping up instead of 'fresh and bright' being the obvious, overarching and immediate theme.

That said, great meal, great service, good time. Blackbird will always be something we look forward to with a giddy intensity.

Started with two glasses of NV Marguet Pere & Fils Grand Cru Rosé Ambonnay. Mouth-wateringly delicious and is becoming an anticipated flavor from the restaurant. Just beautiful with an elegant touch of rose petals and strawberry skin. 65% Chardonnay/35% Pinot Noir and the pinot essence really shows up for the party.

Appetizers:

Glazed veal sweetbreads with with lime onions, tamarind, bee pollen and fried chocolate

Swan creek farm suckling pig with lillet-stewed apricots, snow peas, water chestnuts and beer vinaigrette

Succulent sweetbreads and not so succulent suckling pig. Fell a touch flat. The accompaniments to the sweetbreads sounded great but the bee pollen may have been too subtle and the fried chocolate was maybe too delicate to offer something darker. Both were delicious enough but I honestly had to pause and think of the sweetbreads' party friends as I wrote this.

Intermezzo of pork loin with beets and apricots.

Tasty pork and the thinly-sliced swirled beets added a bright earth and textural contrast. Darn good stuff with the wine, which I'll get to.

Entrées:

Stuffed bobwhite quail with black cumin sausage, charred avocado and house-made giardiniera

Grilled wagyu tri tip with artichoke, figs, sprouting granola and cassia bud

The stuffed quail balls were the star of the night. Perfectly cooked and just danced. The charred avocado purée with the quail = freaky great. A bite of everything came off like the one of the best taco fillings I'd ever had. Quail tacos? Seems like a lot of work but bet they'd be delicious.

Both of us wouldn't have known the tri-tip was wagyu if we hadn't read it on the menu. Wasn't great. Good, just wasn't great. The sprouting granola and cassia was inspired but couldn't lift the beef out of the ordinary.

Desserts:

Pre-dessert of cherry sorbet with cocoa nib and bruléed banana

Fried polenta with klug farms blueberries, lemon verbena and smoked brown sugar ice cream

Dark chocolate gateau with cocoa nib crumble and caramel schmear

Dessert heaven in many ways. Served with two glasses of Barros 1977 Colheita Tawny Port which...23 year-old port...come on...that's decadent. All subtle caramel and fig with a delicately syrupy texture with a kick of alcohol at the end that gently and gracefully disappeared.

Wine:

2006 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Grenache-heavy and dominant. Great pure fruit here showing the typical Grenache red raspberry flavors with a hint of cherry serving as a consistent supporting actor throughout. Pleasing spice with cinnamon/nutmeg and a fruitcake note (which I realized, "that was it!" after reading a description). Medium-bodied with a incredibly long finish that constantly changed throughout the meal.

As a pairing, it served admirably with virtually everything. Oddly, the wagyu tri-tip might have been the best. For a medium-weight meal, a wine showing a medium weight and pure juiciness really couldn't have been better. Added a lot to the overall experience and even picked up some elements by the back of their pants to help it along. Seek it out. $50 retail right now for a pretty great Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Can't beat that.

It was a good meal, a fine meal, a meal I would probably eat next week and be entirely happy and full.

I just don't know if I'll remember much of it a month from now.

Expect for the wine...and stuffed quail balls...which is fun to say.

#63 - Blackbird

We love Blackbird because it's delicious.

We love Blackbird because the staff is spectacular.

We love Blackbird because it always surprises the hell out of us.

For us, when discussing the best restaurants in Chicago, it begins and ends with Blackbird.

Last night reaffirmed those notions and may have even upped the ante. Best experience yet.

Starter bubbly: French brut rosé

A gift. Weren't told the specific wine. Strawberry notes with a nice delicacy and vibrant bubbles. Not on the list.

Amuse Bouche: Asian carp with black garlic

I'm guessing Asian carp (from Google searches). Didn't hear what it was and didn't ask. Very soft fish with a refined punch of black garlic. Tasty.

Appetizers: Crab tail and duck sausage with mortadella

Alaskan king crab tail with ricotta mayo, sunchokes, smoked paprika and pickled parsley paired witha glass of 2007 Regis Cruchet Demi-Sec Vouvray

Charcuterie plate of duck sausage and mortadella with lobster roe vinaigrette and almond yogurt (?) paired with a glass of 2008 Domaine Ostertag Alsace Riesling

The Vouvray was different than other demi-secs we've had. Solid fruit with very pleasing dried flowers but it seemed to enter and finish in the opposite order than other demi-secs in my experience, starting with dried flowers and finishing with an expanding fruit and honey note. Good stuff and a solid pairing. But freakin' genius with a parsley bite.

The Alsatian Riesling had a stylish and elegant purity to it that felt almost ethereal. Flowery with candied stone fruit notes and only a wee hint of sugar. Minerals and a hint of herbs. Loved it. And liked it well enough with the duck sausage (which was spectacular) and mortadella (which was the best I've ever had - can't beat fancy bologna).

Intermezzo: Half-order of crispy black bass with green papaya, dandelion greens, walnuts and charred beef vinaigrette

A gift. Great browning on the fish and terrific, julienned green papaya. We were hesitant to order it as an entrée, mainly due to the dandelion greens, which we had a few times during a very brief phase about a year ago and went "those are awful!" These were hidden. Iffy to say if we would have loved it as an entrée but both of us thought it was insanely balanced and infinitely tasty. The sort of glazed walnut clusters really elevated it as well.

Paired with a Napa Chardonnay that our server - who shall remain nameless but is our favorite server in the city by far, always gives us interesting recommendations, lets us try stuff, gives us way too much free stuff and is just overall 50% of the reason Blackbird rules - was trying at the bar and gave to us in a futile attempt to get us to open up to Chardonnay. Nope. Still don't get the allure.

Entrées: Lamb Saddle and Wagyu Flat Iron

Roasted colorado lamb saddle with white asparagus, vermouth, fromage blanc and spring pea falafel

Grilled wagyu flat iron and warm bone marrow with pickled cippolini onions, caraway crumble, chickweed and pomegranate molasses

Lovely lamb, mild and sweet and gamey and lovely. Beautifully-prepared piece of tender meat and the best quenelle-ish falafel Mrs. Ney has EVER had (and the second time in a week we've had sweet pea in some modified form). We prefer the bone-in, more gnarly lamb incarnation but it was tasty nonetheless.

Different preparation of wagyu than I've had. A smokiness reminiscent of spectacular BBQ by itself and more dense, less buttery style. But eaten with the shockingly wonderful caraway crumble (I wanted to have its babies), some onion and a little green, I'd probably put it in the top 20 of the best bites ever (that list now has about 72 things on it). The bone marrow was a tad superfluous (and didn't have a chance after Lola's bone marrow appetizer).

Entrée Wine Pairing: 2005 Domaine Gourt de Mautens Rasteau

We're relative Rhône novices and had never drunk a Rasteau before. Recommended by our server to pair with the entrées, it's predominantly Grenache with a touch of Mourvèdre. Small producer, impossible to find.

Rasteau mainly grows Grenache and is located just east of Carianne and north of Gigondas in the Rhône valley.

Purple in the glass with blue edges. Medium-bodied. Meat and pepper right away but after ten minutes or so, this exploded with huge blueberries and a quality background of violets, some earthy grit and a hint of sweet herbs. Kept subtly changing with the intensity of the blueberries fading in and out, changing over to red fruits at times. In its blueberry phase, I would have thought it was strange, wonderful and less dense Syrah. Overall, it was delicious and liked it even more after the bottle was finished and had some time to process it.

If this is Rasteau, I want more Rasteau. It wasn't great with the lamb due to the fact that the lamb preparation was more on the delicate side with softer flavors that didn't match up with the earth and herbs in the wine. Fell just on the other side of the fence of being too big for the dish. With the wagyu, it fell right in line with nearly every note. Heck, the wine could even had been a bit bigger with this preparation of wagyu. Mrs. Ney thought the exact opposite with the lamb being a much better pairing than the wagyu.

Pre-dessert: Rhubarb sorbet with quinoa

A gift. Quinoa and sorbet? Yes. And it's good.

Dessert: Hazelnut and chocolate

Hazelnut dacquoise with espresso, crispy chicory caramel and apricot kernel sherbet

Criollo chocolate with cupuaçu, milk meringue and tonka bean ice cream

The dacquoise (funny word to say) was the better of the two but the chocolate dish had elements like the tonka bean and cupuaçu that I've never had before with everything having a pleasant wild grittiness to it.

But that dacquoise. Wow! Like butter.

The hazelnut dessert was paired with a 2006 Francis Tannahill "Passito" Oregon Gewürztraminer while the chocolate was paired with a darker sparkling rosé, probably a French bubbly left on the skins a bit longer, that wasn't on the list. Both gifts. Had them before and liked them enough.

Everything topped off with double espressos and a Grappa made from Barolo. See you in five years, Grappa. Still don't get you.

But Blackbird, oh Blackbird! See you very soon. Much sooner than the six months in between the last two visits.

And the window seat on a slow night made it that much better.